Dubrovnic on the Adriatic

by Herbert I. London
July 27, 2011 at 3:30 am

http://www.gatestoneinstitute.org/2293/dubrovnic-on-the-adriatic

Dubrovnic, Croatia's Athens of the Adriatic, has risen from virtual destruction after Milosovic's Serbian army devastated the town in 1991: 70% of the homes were damaged from the bombing. Even the ancient wall that surrounds the old city was pounded by the tank shelling. Today, nevertheless, Dubrovnic is a tourist destination: the old city has been rebuilt; first class hotels rest on the hillside; this gem of a city is a living memorial to human resilience.

In the heart of the town, just inside the marina, the Sponza Palace pays tribute to the dozens of local young men who paid the ultimate sacrifice defending their city. But twenty years ago seems like the distant past. Now pizza and ice cream stands abound. The orange roofs of yesteryear have been replaced. Tourists from Japan, Israel, Germany, and China fill the main street. And the fumes of fried fish are everywhere..

Dubrovnic has been destroyed by visiting armies and earthquakes; yet it survives protected by the ancient myth of Saint Blaise, who vowed to defeat Ragosa's (the original name of Dubrovnic) enemies. In the past, this city was a Mecca for scholars, artists, teachers. It appeared to be an ecumenical community different from other settlements in the region. As a commercial center, it captured the interest of Venetian leaders who led attacks for centuries against their rivals in the south Adriatic.

The 1.6 mile wall surrounding the city is an imposing architectural wonder.With 335 steps going up and around this barrier, it is also a stress test. Along the way are forts and historical monuments to a past that gives the present meaning. Looking down one finds roofs being repaired, a sea glistening with small vessels and enclosed basketball courts. The Croats are basketball-crazy.

Several years ago Don Rumsfeld, former Secretary of Defense, made reference to the two Europes: the old Western Europe – stolid, socialistic and lacking entrepreneurial drive, and an Eastern Europe filled with vitality, recognizing the virtue of free markets, and democratic governments. Croatia clearly falls into the latter camp.

Dubrovnic is youthful, searching for a future that resembles the U.S. Her glory days may be behind her, but stars such as Gloria Gaynor have been asked to perform in the seaside wonderland. America beckons. Rumor has it that the Russian oligarchs have invested heavily in and around this city. It is a far safer investment harbor than anywhere in Russia. Moreover, Russian oligarchs have a keen sense of smell for American capitalism and that capitalistic fervor is active in Dubrovnic's economy.

It is too soon to say whether the Dalmation coast will be the new French Riviera, but such an agenda is certainly not a farfetched. Dubrovnic is the center of the utopian scenario: not yet San Tropez; not yet discovered by the flash and dash of the contemporary jet set, but not far from discovery either. Always in search of new destinations, the tourist peregrines have found passion-laden Dubrovnic.The glitterati will be on their way.

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